Monday, May 31, 2010

Our First Weekend Trip

when it comes to travelling, there are a seemingly infinite number of destinations to choose from. Luckily, the travel budget is quick to narrow the list of options, making the decision process a bit easier. Nevertheless, travel planning can be an overwhleming task. The most important decision to make is what kind of trip to take, and there are basically two options. The first is geared towards the sole purpose of relaxation. All this option requires is a book, a beach, and a frozen drink. Maybe throw in a massage or a round of golf. The other option is centered around adventure, and usually involves exploring new territory and taking in the sights. Now, for most people, a trip to say...Tahiti would fall under the first option. Days would be spent soaking up the sun, having nice meals, figuring out which frozen drink is the best, and sleeping in. A difficult decision might be whether to use SPF 15 or 30.

And then there is Blake and me. You could send us to an all-inclusive 5-star resort in Bora Bora; the kind of place you don't leave until they make you, and we would end up spending our days exploring the rest of the island. I don't mean to imply that this is a good thing, as I've heard kicking back, relaxing, and getting away from it all is quite nice. We would love to do it sometime, but every time we try we get antsy sitting around and end up setting out to see the sights. For us the thought of missing something while on vacation is horrifying. By the end of our usual trips, we are so exhausted that going back to work is a relaxing getaway.

By now, you're probably wondering where I'm headed with all this. The point is, when we first came here we were absolutely dying to see Australia. We were the furthest we had ever been from home and in a place that both of us had always dreamed of going. Were this a vacation, we would have barely landed before shooting out of Sydney like a cannon into the rest of the country. As it turned out, our first six weeks in Australia were spent inside a 10-mile radius tending solely to set-up duties. And then, at last, the time came for our first weekend trip. Like a dog bursting from a cage after a day of confinement, we exited the city, heading north up the magnificent NSW coast.

We left Friday afternoon for a one-night stopover in Port Macquarie, a beach town about 4 hours north of Sydney. Our trip started out with a long rush-hour ride through the suburbs, followed by a welcomed escape into the Kuringai National Park. From there began the entertaining spectacle of passing a neverending supply of ridiculously named towns, such as Mooney Mooney, Woy Woy, Tuggerawong, Kooranbong, Boolaroo, Quorrobolong, and Coolongolook to name a few. We reached Port Macquarie at about 9:30, dropped our stuff in the room, and asked the guy at the front desk
where we could find dinner. After a moment of thought, he informed us at, "tomorrow is Good Friday, most places will be closed early tonight and all day tomorrow. But, Domino's is still open if you're hungry." Worried that we might not find any food until Saturday, we rushed to the grocery store for a few essentials. Determined not to eat cold canned soup on our first night of vacation, we left the groceries in the car and set out to find a restaurant. We failed in that endeavor, but did find a nice Irish Bar that didn't mind us eating Dominos while enjoying one of their outdoor tables and tasty beverages. While not necessarily the ideal dinner, good atmosphere and cheap pizza suited us just fine.

We were not too impressed with Port Macquarie at that point, although this was partly due to the fact that everything was shutdown for Good Friday, a practice common in Australia. Nevertheless, we decided to explore a bit more in the morning before getting back on the road. Venturing into an area we had not seen the night before, we discovered that the heart of Port Macquarie was by the water, and it was in fact a very likeable town. By far, the highlight of Port Macquarie was an amazing bush walk along the coast leading to a picturesque blue and white hilltop lighthouse that looked as though it had been transported from one of the Greek Islands.

After a great morning walk, we were back on the road headed for our next stop in Coffs Harbour, which lies about two hours to the north. About halfway there, in the middle of nowhere, we were derailed by Fredo's Famous Pies, a legendary roadside eatery known for its unimaginable variety of meat and veggie pies. Previously unaware of its existence, a large crowd alerted us to the fact that this place was not to be missed. After much deliberation about whether the Crocodile or Kangaroo pie would be the tastiest, I went with the Marsupial. Finding a coveted outdoor seat, we happily tore into our Fredo's bag. My pie had a giant "R" on it, so it was easy to identify. Like a kid with an ice cream cone I quickly took my first bite, and then like a kid with Brussel Sprouts, I reluctantly took a second bite. With a consistency that rivals even the thickest gravy, the Kangaroo Pie was less than delicious. Nevertheless, Fredo's was an experience, and the next time we pass it we will surely stop again. I will just be sure to order the Cheesy Potato Pie next time.

Upon arrival at Coffs Harbour we wasted no time making our way to the coast and the well known jetties. Several ocean jetties extend out from the beaches and the heads creating a large protected harbour for boats and recreation. These jetties are absolutely massive. They are constructed with thousands upon thousands of concrete blocks the size of cars. It is seriously impressive, and I don't think even a Category 5 hurricane could phase them. The long walk to the end of the jetties was well worth the views of unspoiled beaches and coastland.

After seeing the panoramic views of what nature had so finely crafted, we were off to see one of mankinds greatest accomplishments....The Big Banana. Weighing in at 1,500 pounds this banana shaped building is perched alongside the Pacific Highway and used for tourist bait. Totally worked on us. Although created by an American in 1964, the Australians have embraced this idea and, well, taken it way too far (although I'm very glad they have). Scattered along roads throughout the entire country, one can find hundreds of "Big" objects, including The Big Beer Can, The Big Playable Guitar, The Big Kangaroo, and my favorite The Big Poo. I'm not joking about the last one. I wish I were, but I'm not. So if you ever find yourself driving through the endless nowhere that is most of Australia, you can at least be comforted to know that somewhere around the next corner is a ginormous object waiting for your arrival.

Another thing you can also look forward to while driving through Australia are the "Driver Reviver" stations that give away free coffee and an Arnott's Biscuit (what we call a cookie. Mmmmm....cookies). Who cares if it makes diner coffee seem gourmet; at a price of $0, you won't find me complaining. The driver reviver stands were everywhere on our road trip, and there are apparently up to 220 of them throughout the country. The road signs reading, "Stop. Revive. Survive" are permanent, but unfortunately, as we later learned, the service only operates during holiday weekends. Operating on volunteer labor and donated supplies, Driver Revivers strive to reduce fatigue related crashes during peak travel periods, while offering a great way to take a break on a long drive.

Having made enough stops for one day, we eventually made our way to our final destination, Yamba (pronounced Yam-buh, not Yom-buh as we mistakenly called it on numerous occasions). Don't worry if you've never heard of it, most of Australians haven't either. It's a small coastal town about a nine hour drive north of Sydney. In a country with so many places to see, you might be asking yourself how, or more appropriately why we selected such an obscure place as our first destination outside the big city. I would love to tell you that it was our uncanny ability to find the perfect vacation spot, but in reality, it was a holiday weekend and everywhere else we looked was totally booked. So, as a last resort, we ended up in Yamba at the Pacific Hotel.

Parking in front of our hotel, I couldn't help but feel that we may have been duped by some well-angled photography and clever marketing. The self-proclaimed "best hotel view in Australia" couldn't possibly lie behind the doors of this modest looking building, could it. It was at this moment I remembered my comments to Blake a couple weeks earlier,"This hotel looks great, and look how cheap it is!" Suddenly worried by the old saying that you get what you pay for, I crossed my fingers and walked on in. Opening the door, it was evident that this was an old school beach hotel. There was nobody in the reception room, and I'm fairly sure that there never is. Were I not in Australia, this would have been concerning; however, it is very common here for older hotels to operate in such a manner. The primary focus of these establishments is the restaurant/bar on the first floor with the upper-floor accomodation being merely a bonus. Looking for assistance, we made our way into the bar. At first glance, it seemed very ordinary with its long wooden bar and dark ornate carpet, a staple of Aussie pubs; however, as we turned to the left, we immediately realized that the "best hotel view in Australia" description was, if anything, an understatment. The bar area opened up into a long open room spanning the entire length of the building, and the east wall, consisting of nearly all glass, yielded incredible elevated views of the ocean and coastline. We couldn't have been happier.

Quickly settling into our room, we left to explore the streets of Yamba. Walking down the huge hill from our hotel to the heart of town, we found a low key, charming town with several restaurants and shops. After a quick look around followed by a walk on the beach, it was time to clean up for dinner. Eager to take advantage of our hotel, we had dinner downstairs. The atmosphere was very casual, but the menu and the food were great. As the crowd continued to strengthen in numbers, it didn't take long to realize that this was the place to be in Yamba. We decided that we would head into town for a bit, and then finish the night back at our hotel. We found a great place to hang out in town, and had even more fun after returning to our place. The crowd was a happy, lively bunch, much like you would expect to find in a pub overlooking the sea on a holiday weekend. We met several Aussies, listened to good live music, and I even danced a bit. Voluntarily, I might add. For those of you who know me, that probably comes as shocking news. On my list of things I enjoy, dancing falls about three spots below stubbing my toe. However, had you seen how terrible the average dancer was, you would understand my willingness to jump on in. For the first time ever, I had found a place where a dancing spectator might actually look my way and say, "that guy's got moves."

The next day we set out for the small nearby village of Illuka, and it was during this time that we finally had the most anticipated Australian experience to date. We had almost reached Illuka, when I stomped and the brakes, simultaneously yelling, "Blake. Look!" She quickly glanced around, but saw nothing as we had sped on by. "Kangaroos!!!" I said, while performing the worlds fastest U-turn (illegal in Australia). It was our first Roo sighting in the wild, although I use the term "wild" loosely as they were grazing in someone's yard along the road. As it was our first encounter with an unfamiliar animal, and due to the surprisingly creepy appearance of these animals, we decided it best to take several photos from the car. After realizing that the roos were too busy eating grass, an activity that seemingly accounts for about 90% of their time, Blake got out for a closer look. Much to our excitement, we got to see them in action as the closest animal hopped away to a safer distance. Giddy from the experience, we jumped back in the car and continued on our way.

We spent the next two days in and around Yamba hiking through unspoiled coastline and beaches, and our nights basically followed the same path as the first one. Looking back, I can say that our experience in Yamba was the best of both worlds. On one hand we had the quiet town, beaches and nature walks to enjoy, and on the other, we had a hotel that offered as much activity and nightlife as we could want. If we tired early, as we did the second night, our room was at the far end of the hotel, removed from the loud voices, live music, and middle-aged bald men doing the robot. Our first weekend destination had been decided by chance, and it couldn't have turned out better. After six weeks of the big city life, the town of Yamba was exactly what we needed.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Adjusting to a New Way of Life

When it comes to leaving your native country for the other side of the globe, there can't be an easier place for an American to adjust to than Australia. There is no language barrier, the weather is great, people are friendly, the economy is great, and so on and so on. In addition, American influences and culture are everywhere. Most of the music, movies, and television shows are American, and a McDonald's, KFC, and Starbucks are never far away. I can't say that I'm thrilled to see American culture everywhere, but at times it can certainly be comforting. Like when you discover a Krispy Kreme store, or that McDonald's sells soft serve ice cream cones for $0.50, or that you can actually get drip coffee from Starbucks. To give some context to my previous statment, I must explain coffee in Australia. For the most part, there is no such thing as brewed coffee here, and coffee shops only offer espresso based drinks, most of which we had never heard of. As I approached the counter for the first time, I was about as comfortable as i would be ordering lunch from the soup nazi. Having no idea what to order I randomly selected the flat white. It was either that or a short black, long black, macchiato, or some other kind that was equally unfamiliar. Over the next week, we ordered and shared every possible type of coffee to find the one we liked best. After much experimentaion, I was finally releived to find my drink of choice, the long black.

Aside from figuring out what coffee to order, our adjustment in Australia has been fairly easy, and it has been easy to blend in. For the most part, no one seems to mind or even notice that we're not Australian. So much for being exotic. However, thanks to the subtleties of the Aussie culture, there have been numerous occassions in which my status as an immigrant has been more than apparent. I have selected a couple of my favorite "looking like a complete ass" moments for your reading pleasure.

Arriving in Australia, I wasted no time acting like a foreigner. Our rental car company was located a few blocks from the airport, and they picked us up upon arrival. Oddly, there is no official pick up area at the Sydney Airport, so the driver met us on foot and led us back to the vehicle in the Car Park (Parking Garage). Excited to set out into a new continent, I proudly reached the car first (it's quite an accomplishment to walk faster than Blake). Approaching the car, I decided to sit in the front seat, and I stood in front of the door waiting for the driver to unlock the car. The driver walked right up beside me, and I was quite surprised that he was about to open the door for me. I remember thinking, "wow, these Australians really are nice." However, instead of opening my door, he gave me a funny look and said, "excuse me." During this brief moment of confusion, I happened to look down only to realize I was on the wrong side of the car, trying to get in on the drivers side*. Smooth. While Blake laughed, and the driver deliberated on whether or not to rent a car to someone who can't even find the passenger seat, I slowly made my way to the other side of the car.

* Australians drive on the opposite side of the street, and the location of the steering wheel is reversed.

In addition to my episode at the airport, the automobile has managed to make me look like a half-wit on numerous other occassions. Generally due to the reversal of everything in the car. For example, it took me at least three days to stop turning on my windshield wipers every time I prepared to make a turn. I still consistently walk to the wrong side of the car when driving somewhere. I, of course, try to play it off by opening the door for Blake, but she's not buying it. She knows it's stupidity, not chivalry. On the rare occasion that I'm not driving, I without fail try to put my foot on the non-existent brake pedal as I get in the passenger seat. Can't help it. Old habit. The only thing, and surely the most important, that is not reversed in the Australian car is the gas and brake pedals. The gas is on the right, the brake on the left. If not for this, I would probably not be fit to drive.

After nearly a week of driving, I was comfortable, even confident, with driving in Australia. One afternoon while driving, I became quite irritated at a stop sign. A woman waiting to turn had stopped in the middle to give me a prolongued nasty look. I stared back, and contemplated using a certain hand signal. That was until I noticed I was sitting in the wrong lane, totally blocking her from turning. Upon this discovery, I quickly sped away lucky to have not caused an accident.

As I'm writing this, I'm realizing the majority of my biggest blunders are behind the wheel. However, there have also been several other minor incidents during the adjustment period: handing people the wrong amounts of money, tipping people that don't ever get tipped, accidentally stealing coffee and groceries in the same day (another story all together), nearly stepping in front of traffic, etc... We have certainly had our fair share of comical mishaps since arriving Down Under, but on the whole, we have assimilated quite well and are feeling more and more at home every day.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Exploring Our New City

If there's one thing in Sydney that really lets you know you're here, it's the Opera House. Aside from Crocodile Dundee (which, by the way, Blake watched for the first time on the plane ride over), it's one of the few Australian icons that most Americans can actually identify. Anyone who has ever visited Sydney has, without a doubt, taken a picture in front of the Opera House. Probably several. However, unlike myself; most people probably wait until they land first. If you want any pictures of an airplane window with a white speck in the distance, let me know.

We had our first good look at the Opera House as we drove from the airport to our hotel; however, it wasn't until the following weekend that we headed downtown to see it up close. Our day started with an enjoyable train ride from North Sydney over the Harbour (spelled with a "u" in Australia) Bridge into the City. Emerging from the train station, we found ourselves immersed in the heart of Downtown. We headed down George Street, Sydney's most bustling thoroughfare with more shops, restaurants and bars than one could count. We first stumbled upon the Queen Victorain Building, a late nineteenth century Romanesque building filling an entire city block. Originally designed for a shopping center, it deteriorated in the 1950s, and has since been restored to its original condition. Despite my extreme dislike for shopping, the architecture alone was worth a long slow walk through the entire structure.

From there, we made our way over to Hyde Park, a 40-acre park on the eastern edge of the CBD. Passing the last row of towering skyscrapers, we were awed by what must be one of the finest green spaces I have ever seen in the heart of a city. Peering down one of the wide tree-lined walkways, we were greeted by Archibald Fountain, the park's centerpiece, and the imposing gothic-style St. Mary's Cathedral in the distance. St. Mary's is the largest church in Australia, one of the largest in the world, and it has a design reminiscent of Notre Dame. Completed in 1882, it can hold its own with any of the magnificent cathedrals scattered throughout Europe. Considering Sydney's brief history, we were pleasantly surprised by the city's remarkable historical buildings. After soaking up Hyde Park for a few moments we headed north through a string of parks leading through the Royal Botanic Gardens to the Sydney Harbour and the Opera House. We meandered through the 75 acre-gardens, stopping for coffee, and for the jaw-dropping sight of thousands of Grey-Headed Flying Foxes (we thought they were bats) dangling from the trees above. During peak season, up to 22,000 of these creatures fill the Botanic Gardens.

At last, we reached our final destination of the day, the Opera House. Up close, the Opera House is a collection of massive concrete overhangs covered with relatively small white tiles. In all honesty, I have seen much prettier buildings, although probably none as unique, and certainly none with quite the significance. As we took our pictures from every imaginable angle, the exciting reality of our move across the globe truly set in.